1500 Commercial Grade Pocket Door Frame (48" x 96")
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Price:
Product Feature
- Complete kit, commercial grade, lifetime guarantee
- 200 lb. capacity, for 2 x 4 interior walls. Includes ball bearing hangers and 1 3/4" adapter kit.
- Pre-installed 100 series box-track
- Steel reinforced split studs for rigid pocket walls
- Frames can be cut down to fit any smaller door size
Product Description
MAX DOOR SIZE: 60" x 108", (6'- 0" x 9'- 0"), [1524mm x 2742mm]
DOOR THICKNESS: 1" [25mm] - 1-3/8" [35mm] or 1-3/4" [44mm] w/1575 adapter kit
MAX DOOR WEIGHT: 125lbs. [57kg] EACH or 200lbs. [91kg] EACH w/1125 ball hearing hangers
FINISHED WALL THICKNESS: 4-9/16" [115mm]
Easily assembled, structurally strong pocket door frame designed for fast installation in standard 2 x 4 timber or steel frame stud walls typically sheeted with drywall. Versatile frame can be adapted for use in thicker walls or cut down to accept any smaller size door. Removable aluminum track with low friction convex track rails, guaranteed jump proof smooth rolling tricycle hangers, rust resistant zinc plated steel reinforced timber split studs and self adjusting floor anchors.
ALL FRAMES CAN BE CUT DOWN TO ACCOMMODATE ANY SMALLER SIZE DOOR.
</p>1500 Commercial Grade Pocket Door Frame (48" x 96") Review
Used this to replace a door that I hated because it was always in the way. For the price I'd say it's totally worth it. My only gripe really is that the steel jacketed side "studs" are a little wobbly - however this is easily remedied by screwing some cross supports (horizontally between them in several locations) with 1x2.I made my own jamb for it (as opposed to the pre-fab) as one side had paneling and the other sheet rock so it required something custom.
Rolls smoothly, works great. LOVE the Kwickset pocket door lock with this. Instructions are sufficient, but not great.
Tips:
• Get short drywall screws - metal jacketed studs are shallow.
• Make 100% sure your door is straight before you walk out of the hardware store and then wonder why you can't get everything to line up. Really sucks to find out after you've gone to the trouble to shellac it too...
• You'll have to relocate switches or outlets.
• Make sure to use the little plastic guides at the bottom to keep the door from flopping around.
• Use a screwdriver or long needle nose pliers to hold the sliding hanger pin while you hitch the door hanger on it.
• Make sure the track and rollers are CLEAN - any debris and it will not roll as smoothly as I would expect.
• Not for load bearing walls! (Unless you have a sufficient header over the span of it supported on either end).
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